Muzungu

Where to begin? So, while you were sleeping I had an adventure (to say the least). It began with very little sleep...I think I might have had 3 hours. For those who know me best, I am not a morning person. The advantage of little sleep? I was awake for the sunrise over Lake Victoria...what a sight! I uploaded 1 picture (the internet is REALLY sketchy...it was all I could do to get that one uploaded. Know that I have more and will share them as soon as I get somewhere that I can get them all uploaded. I am currently using my computer as a base station to empty memory cards.

While I was taking a shower, I got my first taste of power outages...thankfully it only lasted a few seconds. As I was photographing all of the amazing flora, I discovered that our hotel is guarded by 2 armed guards 24/7. Of course, they smiled and I had to stop and visit! I chatted with Martin and Charles for nearly two hours...about Uganda, America, and everything in between. The police here are paid by the government (though both Martin and Charles are actually Bugandan...meaning they consider themselves part of the Buganda kingdom and ultimately their loyalty lies with the Buganda Kabaka (or king). They were simply in awe of my Zi8...and kept saying, "only in America." Sidenote: when I told them I was from Kansas, I got the infamous Dorothy quips. :-)

After exchanging addresses, I found my way up to the second floor of the lodge where I met with others in our group. Almost everything here is open-air...so the views of Kampala and Lake Victoria are amazing up there too (I keep using the word amazing).

After a short visit with them, we moved outside where we then looked south of Lake Victoria and noticed what looked like smoke from fires off in the distance (if you have ever seen smoke from large fires then you will have an idea of what these looked like). So, I asked about the "fires" and was informed that it wasn't smoke I was witnessing...it was May Flies! (Yes, those tiny little bugs). Apparently they hatch when there is a dry spell (which there was the couple of weeks leading up to my visit.

We then headed into Kampala to eat some "local" cuisine. Food here is interesting and very starchy. I had Matoke (steamed banana), Posho (not really sure what it was...but it was white), avocado, greens, steamed pumpkin (which is simply awesome), and a dipping sauce. You have a choice of dipping sauce...there are several kinds...red beans, gnut (or peanut sauce), and another kind that escapes my memory. Also, the sauces can contain meat (goat, beef, or chicken). I chose the chicken sauce. When it came, it was a strange chicken stew concoction with about 1/4 of a chicken in it and a couple "irish" (potatoes). I tried the chicken...it was okay...but the stewy sauce was phenomenal. The trick to the entire meal? You scoop up some of your starch and dip it in the sauce. The matoke and posho are actually pretty bland...but are very good when you dip them. I also had a coke...which is still made from real sugar here...and also still comes in the "old time" glass bottles. The one thing missing? And something that I have not only not had, but also not seen is ice. It is one thing that I miss from home.

So...then the fun REALLY began. We decided it would be a great idea to visit the Owino Market. Let me see if I can explain this properly (I know this will not capture it...but it will be an attempt). Imagine the biggest flea market you have ever been to. Now, imagine a huge corn maze. Now, drop what seems like 30,000 plus people into it. Also add everything that you could ever imagine buying (except for newer technology based stuff). I mean, clothes, shoes, dried rotting fish, every fruit and vegetable imaginable, cheap radios, people sewing, chickens in cages, hats, bras, underwear,...everything! Do you have that in mind? Now, (I am not sure as to the actual size)...but drop all of that into a square about 1/8 of a mile by 1/8 of a mile. Drop in 9 Muzungus (white people). Add in all of the smells...and you have a small idea of what it was like. And...this isn't the "impoverished" area. Everything of value went deep in pockets...and the camera (which we were told not to use unless we ask permission) went around the front so that hands could be kept on it at all times.

As we walked through, I began with sunglasses on...and people just shouted things like "muzungu" and "America." The deeper we found ourselves in this maze, the darker and more enclosed it got. So...the sunglasses came off. Once they did, the real fun began. People started making eye contact and talking. "Muzungu! Muzungu! That is an expensive camera! Take my picture!" When I stopped to take a picture, others would crowd around and start saying, "Muzungu, one for me!" The poses were a cross between very serious (which I discouraged by joking with them until they smiled)...and just plain goofy poses. Then the really magical part...showing them what they looked like. It ALWAYS ended in a smile or laugh. The really strange thing was...I felt completely comfortable the entire time. A member of my group told me afterwards that it is a good thing I am tall...so they could keep an eye on me as they would round a corner and begin to lose me (TRUST ME, this is NOT a place you want to get lost in...it might take days to find your way out). Needless to say, I have over 100 pictures of people there...and shook more hands than I probably have in the rest of my life combined. The really cool thing is...every single person we have run across (and trust me, it is a bunch) has smiled, wave, or greeted us with a "muzungu" or "America!"

On our way back, a car apparently swerved to miss a goat (yes, they are everywhere...and run loose...so do cattle) and ended up in the ditch. We had to stop and our driver helped him out. Good times.

There are so many things one could study here...but one very real possibility is the urbanization effect...and the impacts of moving from a subsistence existence in the rural parts of Uganda to a cash based existence in the cities. It has ethnography written all over it...and would be easy to do. Why? Not just because of the big markets. But also because the streets (everywhere) are absolutely lined with vendors...and they are all selling the same things. From milk, to cheap chinese products, to fresh produce (oh, one other thing...everything I have eaten since I have been here has been fresh). The biodiversity here is incredible to say the least! A person could pull a sample of 500...no problems at all, if they wanted to.

As for technology...only about 12 percent of the Uganda population has electricity. Technology is pretty much an afterthought (and rightfully so) to survival. I am staying at one of the top 2 or 3 lodges in Kampala for these first 2 days...the power is iffy and the internet is hit or miss at best.

Tomorrow we will participate in a bead sale (yes, I will bring home beads)...and begin our adventure in the bead village. We will then visit the slums. If what I saw today wasn't considered a "slum"...I think what I am about to see is going to be heartbreaking at best.

Overall...I think it is fair to say that I LOVE this place! It has a crazy, homey feel to it. After a few minutes, the craziness of it all subsides...and a clearer picture of the place is seen. Throughout the craziness there is a systematic logic.

Hopefully this will post without difficulties...and I can go find some dinner! I will post again when I have the opportunity.