Yesterday was one very long day of flights. I left Uganda at about 10:00 pm and arrived in Manhattan at about 10 pm...keep in mind there are 7 or 8 time changes in there too.
So, I have had a little bit of time to digest and reflect upon what happened. This post, much like my mind right now, will probably be pretty scatter shot...but I want to get some of this down on "paper" as it comes to me.
Our final day in Uganda was spent at M-Lisada orphanage. When we finally found the right dirt road (looked more like a back ally) we ended up a a painted gate. As we hopped out of the bus, a very little girl ran up and grabbed my hand...I knew right then that this was going to be an experience. When the bus was emptied, someone asked if we were ready. We answered yes, but in hindsight I don't really think anyone was truly ready. The gates opened, and what seemed like 100 kids came running out. They ran towards and "chose" us. Each of us in the group had 3-5 children (some had more) come grab us, introduce themselves, hold our hands, rub our arms, give us hugs, welcome us, put our arms around them, and led us into the orphanage. After touring the facility, we were led outside where all of the kids were waiting to put on a show for us. They had a brass band, acrobatics, and a team of traditional dancers. These were/are some of the most talented children I have ever met!
The orphanage has 80 children who live there and another 70 who show up during the day and leave at night. Of the 80 who live there, 65 are in school. The other 15 cannot afford the fees. Long story short, for three terms of primary school the cost is just shy of $500. For three terms of secondary school the cost is just shy of $700. If you want to help, let me know and I will help get you in touch.
Oh my gosh! Ironically, I was was writing this M-Lisada contacted me on facebook! That just made my day!
So, what are my reflections of the trip? There is a theory about culture shock. it is based on a "W-Curve."
http://internationaloffice.berkeley.edu/multiple_use/cultural_adjustment.php
I am currently deep in the second dip. I am finding everything a bit difficult...from using ice in my (Ugandan) tea, to sitting with the lights on. I think it will be quite a while before I truly adjust to being home...and, honestly, I don't think it is at all possible to return to the same state where I was before I left.
Ironically, I didn't really feel the culture shock when I was in Uganda. For the first time in my life, I truly felt like I "fit in." I have always had a twinge of uncomfortableness everywhere I have been (be it at home during family reunions, or in graduate school). When I was in Uganda, I felt the most "at ease" that I ever have. I truly feel that Uganda is where I "belong." And, I will do everything in my power to get back.
My mother (and my "adopted" mother), who I know were each very worried, seem to be at ease now. When I called mom after returning, her first question wasn't "if" I was going back, it was "when are you going back?" The answer? Hopefully in a year I will be back to begin conducting dissertation research.
Now I have to begin making a "video story" of the trip. I am utterly lost as to where to begin. This isn't because I don't have a story...it is because I don't know which story to tell. Do I tell the story of how so many "big" events happened in the world while i was there (volcano, earthquakes, etc) and we knew very little about them? That certainly demonstrates the "lack of connectedness." Do I tell the story of the old man who had never seen a picture of himself? Or, should it be the 8 year-old child who looked like she was 3? Or...should it be... Argh! I really thought this would be easier when i returned...boy was I wrong.
Undoubtedly, more will come later.
Sunday, April 25, 2010
Thursday, April 22, 2010
Quick Update
I will try to make this quick...I am tired, it is late, and I leave tomorrow.
To bring you up to speed on my adventures (I will expand on all of the stories when I get home)...
I left off just prior to the "safari." Let me just say, "Wow!" We literally saw hundreds of giraffes, birds, and buffalo. We were fortunate enough to see 2 lionesses. There is an interesting story behind the first one...I will tell it when I have more time (teaser).
On the final day at Paraa lodge (just off of the Nile in Murchison National Park) Tina and I took a walk down to a little mud hole right in front of the lodge. In this mud hole sat a hippo. Tina said that hippos are pretty docile (note: they kill more people than any other animal)...so we got fairly close and began to take pictures. The hippo decided that we didn't belong...and started to come after us. We both ran...I stopped and started firing off pictures...then ran like crazy! Luckily the hippo stopped. :-)
A few minutes later, Tina was telling the people in her van the story of the hippo...and a baboon jumped on the safari van and poked it's head in through the roof! Pretty funny stuff! Baboons are pretty mean...but also very inquisitive.
We left Paraa and headed south to the chimp tracking site. We spent the night in cabins that were solar powered. As I jumped in to take a shower, I noticed a gigantic spider! (Don't worry, I have video of it). I HATE spiders...especially big ones! Needless to say my shower was VERY short (and cold). That day we met with the Boomu Women's group...and Ednah (the amazing person who put the group together). Many of them weave baskets to survive. I purchased numerous baskets (actually out shopped the women). :-)
The next morning we tracked chimps. Utterly amazing! We walked for about an hour before we found ourselves in the middle of the chimps. They were pretty sneaky. They would sneak up on the trail behind us as we were walking. I have several nice photos.
We then came back to Kampala...and went to a traditional African buffet and show. Uganda is separated into 5 regions...and they did traditional dances from each region...very cool!
Finally, today we went back to the Bead Village to say goodbye to our new found friends. My host had me in tears. He gave me a hat (that his brother weaved) made out of banana plant/leaves. He also gave me a place mat set (one big mat and 6 smaller mats)...all handmade/woven. I will cherish both items for as long as I live.
The children were amazing (as usual). They saw the muzungu's cameras...and were ready to pose for photos as long as we would take them. At one point I probably had upwards of 20 kiddos wanting their pics taken. It was really funny...and a sight to see. I got them to start doing muscle man poses. It made them laugh (a lot)...and I got tons of pictures with smiling kids. After the pics, they always want to see them. Imagine a dog pile on the muzungu and you will have an idea of what it felt like. I ended it with hugs for the kids...while fighting back tears. It wasn't easy. It is simply amazing how quickly human bonds can form. (I have tears as I right this blog). As I told the village during the "speech" we were asked to give, I am really having second thoughts about the saying, "home is where the heart is." Tomorrow I will get on a plane and travel halfway around the world to my "home"...but my heart will forever be here.
Tonight we had one final dinner as an entire group (a couple of my new friends have a 2 am flight...and I just heard them walking out). :-( (In just shy of a couple weeks, 14 strangers became pretty good friends...it makes me sad that I may never see them again). Our dinner was at an ethiopian restaurant. We ended up shooting pool with some locals...the pockets on the pool table were smaller, the balls were much smaller, and they were not numbered (they were yellow and red with one black ball). Needless to say, we lost...but it was a good time.
We returned to the hotel...and said goodbye to the 2 people who are leaving. There were tears. Joanie...if you read this...I think of you like a mother and will miss you very much. I cherished our time together...and wish you all the best! If you are ever near Kansas...let me know and I will come meet you and treat you to some good BBQ!
Tomorrow we visit the orphanage. I really thought it would be a sad way to end the trip...but now I think it might be the most inspirational. The children here are really amazing...and spending even a few minutes with them is really an uplifting experience. I know this sounds weird...but it is somehow true.
For my classmates...
I was in Uganda during a big natural disaster...an earthquake or two (I think)...and I not only did not know very much about these events...but most of the time, I also was unsure of what day it was or what time of day it was. Technology? Shaking my head. There is a very large group of people on this planet who are seriously being left behind...and it very well may have enormous consequences. But, as Lawrence, my host, said to me...technology is a great thing, but electricity, running water, and enough food to eat is much more important right now. I hope, for my dear friend, that one day soon he receives all three.
It is 2010 and my friend doesn't have a light in his house. It is 2010 and my friend has to walk with a jug to get water, that he has to boil over a charcoal fire just so he can drink it. It is 2010 and many days my friend goes hungry. And, my friend is one of the fortunate ones. :-(
To bring you up to speed on my adventures (I will expand on all of the stories when I get home)...
I left off just prior to the "safari." Let me just say, "Wow!" We literally saw hundreds of giraffes, birds, and buffalo. We were fortunate enough to see 2 lionesses. There is an interesting story behind the first one...I will tell it when I have more time (teaser).
On the final day at Paraa lodge (just off of the Nile in Murchison National Park) Tina and I took a walk down to a little mud hole right in front of the lodge. In this mud hole sat a hippo. Tina said that hippos are pretty docile (note: they kill more people than any other animal)...so we got fairly close and began to take pictures. The hippo decided that we didn't belong...and started to come after us. We both ran...I stopped and started firing off pictures...then ran like crazy! Luckily the hippo stopped. :-)
A few minutes later, Tina was telling the people in her van the story of the hippo...and a baboon jumped on the safari van and poked it's head in through the roof! Pretty funny stuff! Baboons are pretty mean...but also very inquisitive.
We left Paraa and headed south to the chimp tracking site. We spent the night in cabins that were solar powered. As I jumped in to take a shower, I noticed a gigantic spider! (Don't worry, I have video of it). I HATE spiders...especially big ones! Needless to say my shower was VERY short (and cold). That day we met with the Boomu Women's group...and Ednah (the amazing person who put the group together). Many of them weave baskets to survive. I purchased numerous baskets (actually out shopped the women). :-)
The next morning we tracked chimps. Utterly amazing! We walked for about an hour before we found ourselves in the middle of the chimps. They were pretty sneaky. They would sneak up on the trail behind us as we were walking. I have several nice photos.
We then came back to Kampala...and went to a traditional African buffet and show. Uganda is separated into 5 regions...and they did traditional dances from each region...very cool!
Finally, today we went back to the Bead Village to say goodbye to our new found friends. My host had me in tears. He gave me a hat (that his brother weaved) made out of banana plant/leaves. He also gave me a place mat set (one big mat and 6 smaller mats)...all handmade/woven. I will cherish both items for as long as I live.
The children were amazing (as usual). They saw the muzungu's cameras...and were ready to pose for photos as long as we would take them. At one point I probably had upwards of 20 kiddos wanting their pics taken. It was really funny...and a sight to see. I got them to start doing muscle man poses. It made them laugh (a lot)...and I got tons of pictures with smiling kids. After the pics, they always want to see them. Imagine a dog pile on the muzungu and you will have an idea of what it felt like. I ended it with hugs for the kids...while fighting back tears. It wasn't easy. It is simply amazing how quickly human bonds can form. (I have tears as I right this blog). As I told the village during the "speech" we were asked to give, I am really having second thoughts about the saying, "home is where the heart is." Tomorrow I will get on a plane and travel halfway around the world to my "home"...but my heart will forever be here.
Tonight we had one final dinner as an entire group (a couple of my new friends have a 2 am flight...and I just heard them walking out). :-( (In just shy of a couple weeks, 14 strangers became pretty good friends...it makes me sad that I may never see them again). Our dinner was at an ethiopian restaurant. We ended up shooting pool with some locals...the pockets on the pool table were smaller, the balls were much smaller, and they were not numbered (they were yellow and red with one black ball). Needless to say, we lost...but it was a good time.
We returned to the hotel...and said goodbye to the 2 people who are leaving. There were tears. Joanie...if you read this...I think of you like a mother and will miss you very much. I cherished our time together...and wish you all the best! If you are ever near Kansas...let me know and I will come meet you and treat you to some good BBQ!
Tomorrow we visit the orphanage. I really thought it would be a sad way to end the trip...but now I think it might be the most inspirational. The children here are really amazing...and spending even a few minutes with them is really an uplifting experience. I know this sounds weird...but it is somehow true.
For my classmates...
I was in Uganda during a big natural disaster...an earthquake or two (I think)...and I not only did not know very much about these events...but most of the time, I also was unsure of what day it was or what time of day it was. Technology? Shaking my head. There is a very large group of people on this planet who are seriously being left behind...and it very well may have enormous consequences. But, as Lawrence, my host, said to me...technology is a great thing, but electricity, running water, and enough food to eat is much more important right now. I hope, for my dear friend, that one day soon he receives all three.
It is 2010 and my friend doesn't have a light in his house. It is 2010 and my friend has to walk with a jug to get water, that he has to boil over a charcoal fire just so he can drink it. It is 2010 and many days my friend goes hungry. And, my friend is one of the fortunate ones. :-(
Monday, April 19, 2010
Ready for a long one?
Hello blog readers. Sorry for the long delay. I am currently at Paraa Lodge in Northern Uganda. I have been without electricity (let alone the internet) for the past few days. Paraa Lodge has 3 computers that are capable of getting on the “information super highway,” they charge to use the Internet (I believe it is 6,000 shillings, $3, for 30 minutes so I am writing this in a Word document. Also, the “business center” (the place where the two computers are) is always busy…hopefully they have Microsoft office…and I can find a 30 minute block of time to get this uploaded when no one is there. I apologize in advance for the length…as I am certain this will be quite long.
Where to begin?
So, when I last updated, I was in Kampala and preparing to visit a slum and then the Bead for Life village. The slum was an amazing experience! If one ever wanted to see what abject poverty looks like, this is certainly the place to go. The sights, sounds, and smells are something that I will NEVER forget! Despite their situation, the people there were extraordinarily nice. For the last few days, I have worn a smile on my face…because I learned that if you smile, they completely break down and give you a big toothy grin. On our way to the center of the slum I saw a man making what they call a Rolex. It is some doughy concoction (sort of like a tortilla)…that they fill with eggs, tomato, and onions). Since I was late getting around in the morning (and missed breakfast), Mark and I braved the slum surroundings and ate a Rolex. It was actually very good (almost like a breakfast burrito without the cheese).
We stopped in the houses of a couple of beaders…and learned their amazing stories. Some were hopeful, while others would almost break you down into tears. What I will remember the most from the slum visit (besides the smells) is the children. They could see the muzungus coming from a mile away…and we could hear them. Their chants were almost song-like. “Mu-zun-gu, how are you? Mu-zun-gu, how are you?” They would sing it over and over again. They would surround us…hold our hands…and walk with us. When we would take their pictures and then show them the photo, their faces would light up. I was amazed at how small some of the children were who would walk away from home (barefoot…in the mud) and follow us. A piece of candy, a thank you, and a goodbye…and they would some how find their way home in the maze that is the slum. We actually had one follow us all their way back out to the trucks. We were talking…and decided, with all of the diseases, poverty, and such, if a child makes it to the age of 10 here, they are TOUGH kids! American children (and many adults) have NO idea of the difficulties that these children face. It is actually kind of surprising that any of them survive at all. Dr. Williams likes to use one-word responses to situations…I will cheat and use more…eye opening and life-changing.
After leaving the slum we went to an Italian restaurant. The food was good…but it was difficult to eat the large portions of food after having just visited the slum. Many of us felt very bad for doing so. We all sent our leftovers home with Lubega (our driver) for his family to eat.
After lunch we made our way to the Bead for Life Village (Friendship village). Here women who used to live in the slum have a community of homes to live in. They make paper beads for their rent…and spending money. We were each paired with host…and lived with them for the next day and a half (we spent two nights in the village). My three word response? Oh My God! When we arrived, all of the men and women in the village were waiting for us. As soon as we pulled in the driveway, they began singing and dancing…I can still hear the one song that they use to great guests…it almost makes me cry just thinking about it. We jumped out of the van and joined them in the fun! The welcomed us and sat us on the porch to the community building. One at a time we stood up and introduced ourselves to the beaders. They didn’t know where Kansas was. One of my fellow travelers, Andy, is black and is from D.C…they called him Obama! (No, seriously, he was known as Obama for our entire stay…and will forever be known as that way). After the introductions, we were escorted out to a field where we played traditional games (such as filling a water bottle, using only your hand). They coaxed me into that game…where I lost! Shocker. I seriously had about an inch of water in my bottle when one of the children I was racing against was completely finished. I couldn’t lose to Andy, so I cheated and dunked the bottle. The villagers were hooting and hollering at me for cheating…but it was all in good fun. Afterwards we danced some more. I participated in some song and dance where you jumped around and poked your butt out in each direction. The villagers were laughing and I didn’t know why until afterwards. Apparently the song was about a woman with HIV…and you weren’t supposed to touch her butt. They thought it was hilarious that I participated in the dance. Then the villagers asked us to teach them a song. We couldn’t think of one…but finally came up with the chicken dance! It was a great time and the villagers thought it was hilarious!
After the games, we were paired with someone who lived in the village…they became our host for the next day and a half. My host was named Lawrence. He is HIV positive, an orphan, and is now the manager of the village. He was a total delight to be around. His two friends who stopped by constantly were Hussein and Sirus. During our stay, we were supposed to “do what they do” on a daily basis. I lucked out and didn’t have to do any manual labor (but I did get to watch everyone else work). Let me just say, LIFE IS HARD WORK! The VERY simple things that we take for granted each day, take hours to complete. You want something to eat, you go to the fridge (after shopping at the store). They want something to eat, they have to go dig, cut, or pick it. Each day is spent gathering water, tending to the gardens, and completing the simple tasks required for survival.
Lawrence had a friend named Campbell. Campbell was one of the originators of the village…and hired Lawrence to help him. Lawrence obviously misses him VERY much…and I think I became the surrogate for a couple of days. Every time we did something, he would say, “Campbell and I did this.” As the sun rose in the morning, he took me to a hill about ¾ of a mile away to take pictures of the village. (There are termite mounds everywhere…so I got pictures of those too). We then went back to the village where we made our rounds. One woman stopped us and made Lawrence climb a Passion fruit tree (all the way to the top) to get me some fruit. She wouldn’t let him stop until she thought I had enough. Bless her. (The passion fruit was very good). We then went about a half-mile up the road to buy a papaya (1000 shillings, or 50 cents). After eating the papaya, Lawrence decided that I needed more pictures, so we went on the trek of a lifetime! (Sorry, I might start crying as I write this). About two miles away from the village (keep in mind, all of this would look like the most remote places of Kansas that you have ever been to…think turkey hunting a couple of miles from any road) we came through a thicket of banana trees and stumbled upon a mud hut. This hut was about 6 feet in diameter and about 6 feet tall with a grass thatched roof. Sitting on the dirt step, cleaning a plastic bowl was an 80-year-old man. He was VERY ill…we thought he might have malaria. (Keep in mind life expectancy here is about 40 years). After some talking I asked if I could take his picture…he said yes. So, I took his picture and asked him if he would like to see it. (Tears). He looked at it, and smiled so big! Most of his teeth were missing. Then he said…this is the first time in his life that he ever saw himself. I will cherish that picture for as long as I live. We are making a copy of it…and having it delivered to him on Thursday. I hope that he is still alive to see it.
We continued on our way and just got deeper and deeper into the countryside. We came across an area where some power lines were being built. Apparently the power company was buying people out to take the land. We stumble across some big holes in the ground and Lawrence said they were graves. He proceeded to tell me that it is customary to dig up your relatives when you move…and re-bury them at your new location. You do this because of a fear of your relatives haunting you for leaving them. We found some children and asked them where the family moved to…they pointed us in the direction…and we were off to find them (which we finally did). We found 9 little graves (about 3 foot long and 2 foot across). These were graves of little children. There were also 4 or 5 larger graves for adults. It was a somber moment.
Oh! I almost forgot! Lawrence saw me as a “brother”…and because of the “special occasion, he (er…we) slaughtered one of his turkeys. (Don’t worry…I have pictures and video). Although we tried to do it in secrecy, the entire village knew in a matter of minutes.
Anyway, our trip into the countryside led us to a road where it was apparent that no muzungu had been in quite some time. We were stopped at every house being asked for pictures. There is something about seeing yourself that I think we take for granted with all of our mirrors and such. On the way out to Murchison, I thought to myself that I hadn’t seen myself in over 2 days…so I can see how easy it would be to go quite some time without that image. When you live in a small brick house with no lights, electricity, tv, plumbing, water, etc…some things are just a bit more important.
Along the way, I learned a few phrases in Luganda and Swahilli. Hello, how are you, beautiful, smile, and goodbye are just a few. (I can’t spell them). It is AMAZING how people respond when you know just a few words of their language! They instantly look at you differently and take you in. We met some brick makers who stopped us to thank me for appreciating their culture and taking the time to learn their language. They said it meant a lot to them. Then they told me I looked like a famous soccer player…and started laughing and poking fun at me…I returned the pokes and we had a good laugh.
As we walked by a high school, one of the students noticed the muzungu walking by…and all of the loud singing and dancing stopped immediately as all of the kids ran to the windows. The girls started shouting at me…and Lawrence began laughing (hard). He said they were “looking for a husband” and that I was a perfect candidate. I told him that they were too young for me…and Lawrence responded that age doesn’t matter...only skin color. They saw me as a way out of poverty.
To cut this story short (I could go on for hours) we ended the night with a “potluck” dinner. This was a first for the villagers…and it was interesting to watch. They didn’t understand that they were sharing their food (that they worked SOOOO hard for all day) with others. But, we got through it. As soon as the dinner was over (it is now VERY dark…9:00pm)…Lawrence decided that I need to experience the “nightlife.” So, we walked about ½ a mile to the nearest bar, drank Nile beer, and listened to a soccer match on the radio with about 40 other Ugandans. When the match was over decided that it was time to visit with the muzungu (obviously not many muzungus come to drink with them). They decided it would be great to give me an African name…and assign me to an African tribe (complete with an entire family…wife, children, sisters, brothers…the whole nine yards). They told me I now belonged to the Skunk tribe. I smelling myself, and they immediately burst into laughter! They then proceeded to tell me that the skunk is a revered animal here…and the Chikozy (sp?) tribe is very powerful and well respected. I don’t really believe them…but it was all good fun.
Lawrence was pretty toasted by the time we had to walk home…he decided to take a shortcut…it is a good thing that I have a good sense of direction, otherwise we may still be tromping through the brush of southern Uganda.
We woke up early (long before sun up) to catch our safari vans. Of course all of the villagers were awake too. Lawrence came to say goodbye until Thursday. Many of the women hosts actually brought their guests food…it was VERY touching/moving. We then began the 8-hour journey to the north side of the Nile river (where I currently am). Along the way we saw SOOO many animals (baboons, warthogs, hippos, water buffalo, some sort of deer looking animal, monitor lizards, Colobus monkeys, and numerous species of birds). We stopped at the falls before crossing the Nile. Oh my gosh! The Nile narrows from 100 meters wide and falls through a gap only 7 meters wide. It is EXTREMELY powerful and an AMAZING sight! (I just watched some of the video that I recorded…I am pretty sure that my family and friends are going to want to kill me…it looks like I was much closer than I really was).
No worries though…I just looked and I have over 2,000 pictures so far! Some are going to make me look like a professional photographer. (It helps when you have a beautiful subject).
Tomorrow (which will be today since I am writing this the day before I can post it) we are going on Safari. Bosco (our guide) has promised us many animals (including giraffes and elephants…here is my chance Alex). I told him there is a tip in it for him if he can find us a lion. He told me it is bad luck to mention an animal that you are looking for…so I just keep telling him to find that “unmentionable” animal that resembles a large cat.
UPDATE: I may or may not have taken pictures of a lioness...you will find out in a future blog.
So…how am I feeling? First there is the physical health. I feel GRRRR-EAT! This trip is NOT for the weak though…it is very grueling. Despite eating tons of stuff that I probably shouldn’t have, (knock on wood) everything is good.
Second is emotional health. This trip is a life-altering experience. It is amazing to see such poverty, yet to see such an amazing spirit in people. Americans could learn so much from these people. I haven’t met a person yet who won’t smile and talk to me.
Technology wise (for my class)…this place is like the stone age. Lawrence didn’t even know what butter is…he does have a computer, but it is obviously from the mid-90’s and weighs about 15 pounds. It looks like a tank…and still uses the 3.5 inch floppies (No USB ports). He doesn’t have electricity, so he has to walk ½ mile to the nearest plug in to charge his computer (it costs 500 shillings, 25 cents and only lasts for 40 minutes). Not that he has anything on the computer that would take 40 minutes to do. He just likes to turn it on and look at it, I think. It is sad to know that the little sd card in my camera dwarfs the capacity of his massive, and useless, computer. I am interviewing him on Thursday…and he is super excited to see my iPod touch. I did break out my Macbook…during a massive rainstorm…and showed him all of the pictures we had been taking. We ran the battery completely dead…he was simply in awe of my Mac. Lawrence has such an awesome spirit…and a VERY entrepreneurial one, if he had a computer, electricity, and internet access, I am certain he would not be in poverty. He LOVES to learn and read…I wish he at least had access to a library (which he doesn’t). The people I have met are SOOOOOO far behind the Western world…it is truly sad to see them being left behind. In our walk through the Owino market, I actually saw an OLD IBM that still used the big (5 inch?) floppies.
On a side note, a large portion of the people here own cell phones. Don’t get too excited. The phones I saw were old Nokia phones…and cost 30,000 shillings ($15). There aren’t post-pay plans here…you have to buy minutes from street vendors (who are everywhere)…and the cost is about 20 cents a minute. I have been told by a couple of people that the phones are mainly used to help their family/friends by transferring money and such…not the hour long, nonsensical conversations that we have in America.
They say that home is where your heart is. I am really torn. I have completely fallen in love with this obscenely beautiful and absurdly impoverished country. There is a spirit here that should be embraced openly by the rest of the world. I know when I say goodbye to my new found friends, leave for the airport in a few days, step on the plane and leave this place, there will undoubtedly be tears in my eyes. My “home” is half of a planet away…but a very large part of my heart will forever be here, with this amazing country, beautiful people, and lifelong friends.
Where to begin?
So, when I last updated, I was in Kampala and preparing to visit a slum and then the Bead for Life village. The slum was an amazing experience! If one ever wanted to see what abject poverty looks like, this is certainly the place to go. The sights, sounds, and smells are something that I will NEVER forget! Despite their situation, the people there were extraordinarily nice. For the last few days, I have worn a smile on my face…because I learned that if you smile, they completely break down and give you a big toothy grin. On our way to the center of the slum I saw a man making what they call a Rolex. It is some doughy concoction (sort of like a tortilla)…that they fill with eggs, tomato, and onions). Since I was late getting around in the morning (and missed breakfast), Mark and I braved the slum surroundings and ate a Rolex. It was actually very good (almost like a breakfast burrito without the cheese).
We stopped in the houses of a couple of beaders…and learned their amazing stories. Some were hopeful, while others would almost break you down into tears. What I will remember the most from the slum visit (besides the smells) is the children. They could see the muzungus coming from a mile away…and we could hear them. Their chants were almost song-like. “Mu-zun-gu, how are you? Mu-zun-gu, how are you?” They would sing it over and over again. They would surround us…hold our hands…and walk with us. When we would take their pictures and then show them the photo, their faces would light up. I was amazed at how small some of the children were who would walk away from home (barefoot…in the mud) and follow us. A piece of candy, a thank you, and a goodbye…and they would some how find their way home in the maze that is the slum. We actually had one follow us all their way back out to the trucks. We were talking…and decided, with all of the diseases, poverty, and such, if a child makes it to the age of 10 here, they are TOUGH kids! American children (and many adults) have NO idea of the difficulties that these children face. It is actually kind of surprising that any of them survive at all. Dr. Williams likes to use one-word responses to situations…I will cheat and use more…eye opening and life-changing.
After leaving the slum we went to an Italian restaurant. The food was good…but it was difficult to eat the large portions of food after having just visited the slum. Many of us felt very bad for doing so. We all sent our leftovers home with Lubega (our driver) for his family to eat.
After lunch we made our way to the Bead for Life Village (Friendship village). Here women who used to live in the slum have a community of homes to live in. They make paper beads for their rent…and spending money. We were each paired with host…and lived with them for the next day and a half (we spent two nights in the village). My three word response? Oh My God! When we arrived, all of the men and women in the village were waiting for us. As soon as we pulled in the driveway, they began singing and dancing…I can still hear the one song that they use to great guests…it almost makes me cry just thinking about it. We jumped out of the van and joined them in the fun! The welcomed us and sat us on the porch to the community building. One at a time we stood up and introduced ourselves to the beaders. They didn’t know where Kansas was. One of my fellow travelers, Andy, is black and is from D.C…they called him Obama! (No, seriously, he was known as Obama for our entire stay…and will forever be known as that way). After the introductions, we were escorted out to a field where we played traditional games (such as filling a water bottle, using only your hand). They coaxed me into that game…where I lost! Shocker. I seriously had about an inch of water in my bottle when one of the children I was racing against was completely finished. I couldn’t lose to Andy, so I cheated and dunked the bottle. The villagers were hooting and hollering at me for cheating…but it was all in good fun. Afterwards we danced some more. I participated in some song and dance where you jumped around and poked your butt out in each direction. The villagers were laughing and I didn’t know why until afterwards. Apparently the song was about a woman with HIV…and you weren’t supposed to touch her butt. They thought it was hilarious that I participated in the dance. Then the villagers asked us to teach them a song. We couldn’t think of one…but finally came up with the chicken dance! It was a great time and the villagers thought it was hilarious!
After the games, we were paired with someone who lived in the village…they became our host for the next day and a half. My host was named Lawrence. He is HIV positive, an orphan, and is now the manager of the village. He was a total delight to be around. His two friends who stopped by constantly were Hussein and Sirus. During our stay, we were supposed to “do what they do” on a daily basis. I lucked out and didn’t have to do any manual labor (but I did get to watch everyone else work). Let me just say, LIFE IS HARD WORK! The VERY simple things that we take for granted each day, take hours to complete. You want something to eat, you go to the fridge (after shopping at the store). They want something to eat, they have to go dig, cut, or pick it. Each day is spent gathering water, tending to the gardens, and completing the simple tasks required for survival.
Lawrence had a friend named Campbell. Campbell was one of the originators of the village…and hired Lawrence to help him. Lawrence obviously misses him VERY much…and I think I became the surrogate for a couple of days. Every time we did something, he would say, “Campbell and I did this.” As the sun rose in the morning, he took me to a hill about ¾ of a mile away to take pictures of the village. (There are termite mounds everywhere…so I got pictures of those too). We then went back to the village where we made our rounds. One woman stopped us and made Lawrence climb a Passion fruit tree (all the way to the top) to get me some fruit. She wouldn’t let him stop until she thought I had enough. Bless her. (The passion fruit was very good). We then went about a half-mile up the road to buy a papaya (1000 shillings, or 50 cents). After eating the papaya, Lawrence decided that I needed more pictures, so we went on the trek of a lifetime! (Sorry, I might start crying as I write this). About two miles away from the village (keep in mind, all of this would look like the most remote places of Kansas that you have ever been to…think turkey hunting a couple of miles from any road) we came through a thicket of banana trees and stumbled upon a mud hut. This hut was about 6 feet in diameter and about 6 feet tall with a grass thatched roof. Sitting on the dirt step, cleaning a plastic bowl was an 80-year-old man. He was VERY ill…we thought he might have malaria. (Keep in mind life expectancy here is about 40 years). After some talking I asked if I could take his picture…he said yes. So, I took his picture and asked him if he would like to see it. (Tears). He looked at it, and smiled so big! Most of his teeth were missing. Then he said…this is the first time in his life that he ever saw himself. I will cherish that picture for as long as I live. We are making a copy of it…and having it delivered to him on Thursday. I hope that he is still alive to see it.
We continued on our way and just got deeper and deeper into the countryside. We came across an area where some power lines were being built. Apparently the power company was buying people out to take the land. We stumble across some big holes in the ground and Lawrence said they were graves. He proceeded to tell me that it is customary to dig up your relatives when you move…and re-bury them at your new location. You do this because of a fear of your relatives haunting you for leaving them. We found some children and asked them where the family moved to…they pointed us in the direction…and we were off to find them (which we finally did). We found 9 little graves (about 3 foot long and 2 foot across). These were graves of little children. There were also 4 or 5 larger graves for adults. It was a somber moment.
Oh! I almost forgot! Lawrence saw me as a “brother”…and because of the “special occasion, he (er…we) slaughtered one of his turkeys. (Don’t worry…I have pictures and video). Although we tried to do it in secrecy, the entire village knew in a matter of minutes.
Anyway, our trip into the countryside led us to a road where it was apparent that no muzungu had been in quite some time. We were stopped at every house being asked for pictures. There is something about seeing yourself that I think we take for granted with all of our mirrors and such. On the way out to Murchison, I thought to myself that I hadn’t seen myself in over 2 days…so I can see how easy it would be to go quite some time without that image. When you live in a small brick house with no lights, electricity, tv, plumbing, water, etc…some things are just a bit more important.
Along the way, I learned a few phrases in Luganda and Swahilli. Hello, how are you, beautiful, smile, and goodbye are just a few. (I can’t spell them). It is AMAZING how people respond when you know just a few words of their language! They instantly look at you differently and take you in. We met some brick makers who stopped us to thank me for appreciating their culture and taking the time to learn their language. They said it meant a lot to them. Then they told me I looked like a famous soccer player…and started laughing and poking fun at me…I returned the pokes and we had a good laugh.
As we walked by a high school, one of the students noticed the muzungu walking by…and all of the loud singing and dancing stopped immediately as all of the kids ran to the windows. The girls started shouting at me…and Lawrence began laughing (hard). He said they were “looking for a husband” and that I was a perfect candidate. I told him that they were too young for me…and Lawrence responded that age doesn’t matter...only skin color. They saw me as a way out of poverty.
To cut this story short (I could go on for hours) we ended the night with a “potluck” dinner. This was a first for the villagers…and it was interesting to watch. They didn’t understand that they were sharing their food (that they worked SOOOO hard for all day) with others. But, we got through it. As soon as the dinner was over (it is now VERY dark…9:00pm)…Lawrence decided that I need to experience the “nightlife.” So, we walked about ½ a mile to the nearest bar, drank Nile beer, and listened to a soccer match on the radio with about 40 other Ugandans. When the match was over decided that it was time to visit with the muzungu (obviously not many muzungus come to drink with them). They decided it would be great to give me an African name…and assign me to an African tribe (complete with an entire family…wife, children, sisters, brothers…the whole nine yards). They told me I now belonged to the Skunk tribe. I smelling myself, and they immediately burst into laughter! They then proceeded to tell me that the skunk is a revered animal here…and the Chikozy (sp?) tribe is very powerful and well respected. I don’t really believe them…but it was all good fun.
Lawrence was pretty toasted by the time we had to walk home…he decided to take a shortcut…it is a good thing that I have a good sense of direction, otherwise we may still be tromping through the brush of southern Uganda.
We woke up early (long before sun up) to catch our safari vans. Of course all of the villagers were awake too. Lawrence came to say goodbye until Thursday. Many of the women hosts actually brought their guests food…it was VERY touching/moving. We then began the 8-hour journey to the north side of the Nile river (where I currently am). Along the way we saw SOOO many animals (baboons, warthogs, hippos, water buffalo, some sort of deer looking animal, monitor lizards, Colobus monkeys, and numerous species of birds). We stopped at the falls before crossing the Nile. Oh my gosh! The Nile narrows from 100 meters wide and falls through a gap only 7 meters wide. It is EXTREMELY powerful and an AMAZING sight! (I just watched some of the video that I recorded…I am pretty sure that my family and friends are going to want to kill me…it looks like I was much closer than I really was).
No worries though…I just looked and I have over 2,000 pictures so far! Some are going to make me look like a professional photographer. (It helps when you have a beautiful subject).
Tomorrow (which will be today since I am writing this the day before I can post it) we are going on Safari. Bosco (our guide) has promised us many animals (including giraffes and elephants…here is my chance Alex). I told him there is a tip in it for him if he can find us a lion. He told me it is bad luck to mention an animal that you are looking for…so I just keep telling him to find that “unmentionable” animal that resembles a large cat.
UPDATE: I may or may not have taken pictures of a lioness...you will find out in a future blog.
So…how am I feeling? First there is the physical health. I feel GRRRR-EAT! This trip is NOT for the weak though…it is very grueling. Despite eating tons of stuff that I probably shouldn’t have, (knock on wood) everything is good.
Second is emotional health. This trip is a life-altering experience. It is amazing to see such poverty, yet to see such an amazing spirit in people. Americans could learn so much from these people. I haven’t met a person yet who won’t smile and talk to me.
Technology wise (for my class)…this place is like the stone age. Lawrence didn’t even know what butter is…he does have a computer, but it is obviously from the mid-90’s and weighs about 15 pounds. It looks like a tank…and still uses the 3.5 inch floppies (No USB ports). He doesn’t have electricity, so he has to walk ½ mile to the nearest plug in to charge his computer (it costs 500 shillings, 25 cents and only lasts for 40 minutes). Not that he has anything on the computer that would take 40 minutes to do. He just likes to turn it on and look at it, I think. It is sad to know that the little sd card in my camera dwarfs the capacity of his massive, and useless, computer. I am interviewing him on Thursday…and he is super excited to see my iPod touch. I did break out my Macbook…during a massive rainstorm…and showed him all of the pictures we had been taking. We ran the battery completely dead…he was simply in awe of my Mac. Lawrence has such an awesome spirit…and a VERY entrepreneurial one, if he had a computer, electricity, and internet access, I am certain he would not be in poverty. He LOVES to learn and read…I wish he at least had access to a library (which he doesn’t). The people I have met are SOOOOOO far behind the Western world…it is truly sad to see them being left behind. In our walk through the Owino market, I actually saw an OLD IBM that still used the big (5 inch?) floppies.
On a side note, a large portion of the people here own cell phones. Don’t get too excited. The phones I saw were old Nokia phones…and cost 30,000 shillings ($15). There aren’t post-pay plans here…you have to buy minutes from street vendors (who are everywhere)…and the cost is about 20 cents a minute. I have been told by a couple of people that the phones are mainly used to help their family/friends by transferring money and such…not the hour long, nonsensical conversations that we have in America.
They say that home is where your heart is. I am really torn. I have completely fallen in love with this obscenely beautiful and absurdly impoverished country. There is a spirit here that should be embraced openly by the rest of the world. I know when I say goodbye to my new found friends, leave for the airport in a few days, step on the plane and leave this place, there will undoubtedly be tears in my eyes. My “home” is half of a planet away…but a very large part of my heart will forever be here, with this amazing country, beautiful people, and lifelong friends.
Thursday, April 15, 2010
Bead Sale Day
When I left home, I knew I was forgetting 12 things...but didn't know what they were. Ever get that feeling? So, two things that I forgot...my ipod charger and an alarm clock. Last night I was attempting to download an alarm clock application...and I was so tired that I fell asleep during the download. Luckily I woke up at 5:30...so I had an early start to the day. After skyping home and letting everyone know I am okay, I headed to breakfast...more fresh fruit and fresh fruit juice (mango, I think), scrambled eggs, toast, and some sausage? thing that looked like those little red hot sausages you buy in a gas station (it wasn't hot though). My group told me I was brave for trying it...I was hungry.
After breakfast we headed to the bead for life office. Every two weeks a group of beaders make the trek to the office to sell beads that they have made in the last couple of weeks. The sale began with all 50 women forming a big circle. Some drums started...and they all began to sing and dance. It was a really cool sight to see. It began to rain during the singing and dancing (No Robert, it wasn't a rain dance). So, we all rushed down to a big white tent (in the mud) and began to introduce ourselves. When I said I was from Kansas, there was quite a few quizzical looks...like, where? The rain stopped and the bead sale began. During the course of the sale I experience each step of the process. I began with a brand new product they are coming out with, Shea butter soap...make from Shea nuts. It was interesting...and they actually sold us a little bit. Then I had some free time to just walk around, visit, and take pictures. I went outside and visited with a mother...and her two year old son (who was asleep on her back). I hope the pictures turn out! I say the boy was on her back...let me explain. They use a piece of cloth that is about the same feel as a bed sheet and about the size of a towel to form a holding device (poor wording, I know. It is difficult to explain). Try bending your knee...the throw a towel over it...and pull on both ends. It is the same concept...except it is around your back and there is a baby in it. It allows the mother to hold on the ends at about waist level.
I then went inside and began "bundling" beads. We would pick up 5 different colored necklaces and tie a piece of something ( it looked like some sort of dried grass) around them. Finally, the toughest part. I went back outside and was responsible for "buying" the beads. What does this mean? Well, the women, with all of her necklaces draped on one arm sits down in front of you, hands you the necklaces, and you have to decide if they are acceptable or not. That is to say, will an American buy them? It REALLY sucked! I am far too nice for that job. I kept trying to pass beads along and my Ugandan helper would keep telling me no...hand it back to the woman and tell her this or that is wrong with it. I did this numerous times (one time I actually handed back about 20 of the most beautiful color necklaces...because there wasn't enough varnish on them). :-( For those who don't know, I guess I should tell you that these beads are made out of strips of paper. The paper is cut into a long triangle shape...then rolled very tightly, dipped in varnish, the varnish is rubbed smooth, then the beads are strung together to form a necklace or bracelet). Finally, a beautiful necklace came through and I thought hmm there is a surefire sale. My Ugandan helper handed it back to the woman. I reached back for the necklace and looked at it again...then asked why she would return this necklace. She explained that the little "seeder" beads between the paper beads were too bright. I told her I disagreed...and that someone in America would love to buy this necklace. Without so much as a blink, she wrapped a piece of plastic around the necklace and said, "yes, someone in America WILL buy it. You just did, congratulations." It really made the woman selling the necklace happy. I was a bit shocked...but it was pretty cool. The other women sitting around starting saying muzungu, muzungu...they wanted me to buy theirs too. :-)
Buying beads is exhausting! I can only imagine how tough it is to make them. Well, I guess I can say that because over the next two days I will be living with a woman in the village, helping her make beads, and participating in her daily life...so, I guess I will know exactly how tough it is!
Finally we had lunch...more of the same. Matoke, Posho, rice, Irish, sweet potatoes, steamed pumpkin (which is STILL amazing...instead of carving them, Americans need to start eating them), and all the different sauces. I tried the beef sauce today...it was tasty. I still haven't seen an ice cube...but I did see my first stop sign (nobody stopped at it). I was told there were 5 stop lights in town (but three of them don't work..and the other two are turned off). :-)
I am resting now...but will try to get photos up later when the internet is working better. If found out I will have internet up in northern Uganda...so I will only be offline for a couple of days (hopefully).
Until then...
After breakfast we headed to the bead for life office. Every two weeks a group of beaders make the trek to the office to sell beads that they have made in the last couple of weeks. The sale began with all 50 women forming a big circle. Some drums started...and they all began to sing and dance. It was a really cool sight to see. It began to rain during the singing and dancing (No Robert, it wasn't a rain dance). So, we all rushed down to a big white tent (in the mud) and began to introduce ourselves. When I said I was from Kansas, there was quite a few quizzical looks...like, where? The rain stopped and the bead sale began. During the course of the sale I experience each step of the process. I began with a brand new product they are coming out with, Shea butter soap...make from Shea nuts. It was interesting...and they actually sold us a little bit. Then I had some free time to just walk around, visit, and take pictures. I went outside and visited with a mother...and her two year old son (who was asleep on her back). I hope the pictures turn out! I say the boy was on her back...let me explain. They use a piece of cloth that is about the same feel as a bed sheet and about the size of a towel to form a holding device (poor wording, I know. It is difficult to explain). Try bending your knee...the throw a towel over it...and pull on both ends. It is the same concept...except it is around your back and there is a baby in it. It allows the mother to hold on the ends at about waist level.
I then went inside and began "bundling" beads. We would pick up 5 different colored necklaces and tie a piece of something ( it looked like some sort of dried grass) around them. Finally, the toughest part. I went back outside and was responsible for "buying" the beads. What does this mean? Well, the women, with all of her necklaces draped on one arm sits down in front of you, hands you the necklaces, and you have to decide if they are acceptable or not. That is to say, will an American buy them? It REALLY sucked! I am far too nice for that job. I kept trying to pass beads along and my Ugandan helper would keep telling me no...hand it back to the woman and tell her this or that is wrong with it. I did this numerous times (one time I actually handed back about 20 of the most beautiful color necklaces...because there wasn't enough varnish on them). :-( For those who don't know, I guess I should tell you that these beads are made out of strips of paper. The paper is cut into a long triangle shape...then rolled very tightly, dipped in varnish, the varnish is rubbed smooth, then the beads are strung together to form a necklace or bracelet). Finally, a beautiful necklace came through and I thought hmm there is a surefire sale. My Ugandan helper handed it back to the woman. I reached back for the necklace and looked at it again...then asked why she would return this necklace. She explained that the little "seeder" beads between the paper beads were too bright. I told her I disagreed...and that someone in America would love to buy this necklace. Without so much as a blink, she wrapped a piece of plastic around the necklace and said, "yes, someone in America WILL buy it. You just did, congratulations." It really made the woman selling the necklace happy. I was a bit shocked...but it was pretty cool. The other women sitting around starting saying muzungu, muzungu...they wanted me to buy theirs too. :-)
Buying beads is exhausting! I can only imagine how tough it is to make them. Well, I guess I can say that because over the next two days I will be living with a woman in the village, helping her make beads, and participating in her daily life...so, I guess I will know exactly how tough it is!
Finally we had lunch...more of the same. Matoke, Posho, rice, Irish, sweet potatoes, steamed pumpkin (which is STILL amazing...instead of carving them, Americans need to start eating them), and all the different sauces. I tried the beef sauce today...it was tasty. I still haven't seen an ice cube...but I did see my first stop sign (nobody stopped at it). I was told there were 5 stop lights in town (but three of them don't work..and the other two are turned off). :-)
I am resting now...but will try to get photos up later when the internet is working better. If found out I will have internet up in northern Uganda...so I will only be offline for a couple of days (hopefully).
Until then...
Wednesday, April 14, 2010
More pics
Okay...so the best time to use the internet (and upload some pics) is in the morning (for today at least). :-)
I have posted some more on facebook...not entirely sure how to post them here too. But, this catches more people. I found it is difficult to keep everyone up to speed. :-)
Enjoy! I am about to walk out the door for another "experience."
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2054056&id=80401668
I have posted some more on facebook...not entirely sure how to post them here too. But, this catches more people. I found it is difficult to keep everyone up to speed. :-)
Enjoy! I am about to walk out the door for another "experience."
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2054056&id=80401668
Muzungu
Where to begin? So, while you were sleeping I had an adventure (to say the least). It began with very little sleep...I think I might have had 3 hours. For those who know me best, I am not a morning person. The advantage of little sleep? I was awake for the sunrise over Lake Victoria...what a sight! I uploaded 1 picture (the internet is REALLY sketchy...it was all I could do to get that one uploaded. Know that I have more and will share them as soon as I get somewhere that I can get them all uploaded. I am currently using my computer as a base station to empty memory cards.
While I was taking a shower, I got my first taste of power outages...thankfully it only lasted a few seconds. As I was photographing all of the amazing flora, I discovered that our hotel is guarded by 2 armed guards 24/7. Of course, they smiled and I had to stop and visit! I chatted with Martin and Charles for nearly two hours...about Uganda, America, and everything in between. The police here are paid by the government (though both Martin and Charles are actually Bugandan...meaning they consider themselves part of the Buganda kingdom and ultimately their loyalty lies with the Buganda Kabaka (or king). They were simply in awe of my Zi8...and kept saying, "only in America." Sidenote: when I told them I was from Kansas, I got the infamous Dorothy quips. :-)
After exchanging addresses, I found my way up to the second floor of the lodge where I met with others in our group. Almost everything here is open-air...so the views of Kampala and Lake Victoria are amazing up there too (I keep using the word amazing).
After a short visit with them, we moved outside where we then looked south of Lake Victoria and noticed what looked like smoke from fires off in the distance (if you have ever seen smoke from large fires then you will have an idea of what these looked like). So, I asked about the "fires" and was informed that it wasn't smoke I was witnessing...it was May Flies! (Yes, those tiny little bugs). Apparently they hatch when there is a dry spell (which there was the couple of weeks leading up to my visit.
We then headed into Kampala to eat some "local" cuisine. Food here is interesting and very starchy. I had Matoke (steamed banana), Posho (not really sure what it was...but it was white), avocado, greens, steamed pumpkin (which is simply awesome), and a dipping sauce. You have a choice of dipping sauce...there are several kinds...red beans, gnut (or peanut sauce), and another kind that escapes my memory. Also, the sauces can contain meat (goat, beef, or chicken). I chose the chicken sauce. When it came, it was a strange chicken stew concoction with about 1/4 of a chicken in it and a couple "irish" (potatoes). I tried the chicken...it was okay...but the stewy sauce was phenomenal. The trick to the entire meal? You scoop up some of your starch and dip it in the sauce. The matoke and posho are actually pretty bland...but are very good when you dip them. I also had a coke...which is still made from real sugar here...and also still comes in the "old time" glass bottles. The one thing missing? And something that I have not only not had, but also not seen is ice. It is one thing that I miss from home.
So...then the fun REALLY began. We decided it would be a great idea to visit the Owino Market. Let me see if I can explain this properly (I know this will not capture it...but it will be an attempt). Imagine the biggest flea market you have ever been to. Now, imagine a huge corn maze. Now, drop what seems like 30,000 plus people into it. Also add everything that you could ever imagine buying (except for newer technology based stuff). I mean, clothes, shoes, dried rotting fish, every fruit and vegetable imaginable, cheap radios, people sewing, chickens in cages, hats, bras, underwear,...everything! Do you have that in mind? Now, (I am not sure as to the actual size)...but drop all of that into a square about 1/8 of a mile by 1/8 of a mile. Drop in 9 Muzungus (white people). Add in all of the smells...and you have a small idea of what it was like. And...this isn't the "impoverished" area. Everything of value went deep in pockets...and the camera (which we were told not to use unless we ask permission) went around the front so that hands could be kept on it at all times.
As we walked through, I began with sunglasses on...and people just shouted things like "muzungu" and "America." The deeper we found ourselves in this maze, the darker and more enclosed it got. So...the sunglasses came off. Once they did, the real fun began. People started making eye contact and talking. "Muzungu! Muzungu! That is an expensive camera! Take my picture!" When I stopped to take a picture, others would crowd around and start saying, "Muzungu, one for me!" The poses were a cross between very serious (which I discouraged by joking with them until they smiled)...and just plain goofy poses. Then the really magical part...showing them what they looked like. It ALWAYS ended in a smile or laugh. The really strange thing was...I felt completely comfortable the entire time. A member of my group told me afterwards that it is a good thing I am tall...so they could keep an eye on me as they would round a corner and begin to lose me (TRUST ME, this is NOT a place you want to get lost in...it might take days to find your way out). Needless to say, I have over 100 pictures of people there...and shook more hands than I probably have in the rest of my life combined. The really cool thing is...every single person we have run across (and trust me, it is a bunch) has smiled, wave, or greeted us with a "muzungu" or "America!"
On our way back, a car apparently swerved to miss a goat (yes, they are everywhere...and run loose...so do cattle) and ended up in the ditch. We had to stop and our driver helped him out. Good times.
There are so many things one could study here...but one very real possibility is the urbanization effect...and the impacts of moving from a subsistence existence in the rural parts of Uganda to a cash based existence in the cities. It has ethnography written all over it...and would be easy to do. Why? Not just because of the big markets. But also because the streets (everywhere) are absolutely lined with vendors...and they are all selling the same things. From milk, to cheap chinese products, to fresh produce (oh, one other thing...everything I have eaten since I have been here has been fresh). The biodiversity here is incredible to say the least! A person could pull a sample of 500...no problems at all, if they wanted to.
As for technology...only about 12 percent of the Uganda population has electricity. Technology is pretty much an afterthought (and rightfully so) to survival. I am staying at one of the top 2 or 3 lodges in Kampala for these first 2 days...the power is iffy and the internet is hit or miss at best.
Tomorrow we will participate in a bead sale (yes, I will bring home beads)...and begin our adventure in the bead village. We will then visit the slums. If what I saw today wasn't considered a "slum"...I think what I am about to see is going to be heartbreaking at best.
Overall...I think it is fair to say that I LOVE this place! It has a crazy, homey feel to it. After a few minutes, the craziness of it all subsides...and a clearer picture of the place is seen. Throughout the craziness there is a systematic logic.
Hopefully this will post without difficulties...and I can go find some dinner! I will post again when I have the opportunity.
While I was taking a shower, I got my first taste of power outages...thankfully it only lasted a few seconds. As I was photographing all of the amazing flora, I discovered that our hotel is guarded by 2 armed guards 24/7. Of course, they smiled and I had to stop and visit! I chatted with Martin and Charles for nearly two hours...about Uganda, America, and everything in between. The police here are paid by the government (though both Martin and Charles are actually Bugandan...meaning they consider themselves part of the Buganda kingdom and ultimately their loyalty lies with the Buganda Kabaka (or king). They were simply in awe of my Zi8...and kept saying, "only in America." Sidenote: when I told them I was from Kansas, I got the infamous Dorothy quips. :-)
After exchanging addresses, I found my way up to the second floor of the lodge where I met with others in our group. Almost everything here is open-air...so the views of Kampala and Lake Victoria are amazing up there too (I keep using the word amazing).
After a short visit with them, we moved outside where we then looked south of Lake Victoria and noticed what looked like smoke from fires off in the distance (if you have ever seen smoke from large fires then you will have an idea of what these looked like). So, I asked about the "fires" and was informed that it wasn't smoke I was witnessing...it was May Flies! (Yes, those tiny little bugs). Apparently they hatch when there is a dry spell (which there was the couple of weeks leading up to my visit.
We then headed into Kampala to eat some "local" cuisine. Food here is interesting and very starchy. I had Matoke (steamed banana), Posho (not really sure what it was...but it was white), avocado, greens, steamed pumpkin (which is simply awesome), and a dipping sauce. You have a choice of dipping sauce...there are several kinds...red beans, gnut (or peanut sauce), and another kind that escapes my memory. Also, the sauces can contain meat (goat, beef, or chicken). I chose the chicken sauce. When it came, it was a strange chicken stew concoction with about 1/4 of a chicken in it and a couple "irish" (potatoes). I tried the chicken...it was okay...but the stewy sauce was phenomenal. The trick to the entire meal? You scoop up some of your starch and dip it in the sauce. The matoke and posho are actually pretty bland...but are very good when you dip them. I also had a coke...which is still made from real sugar here...and also still comes in the "old time" glass bottles. The one thing missing? And something that I have not only not had, but also not seen is ice. It is one thing that I miss from home.
So...then the fun REALLY began. We decided it would be a great idea to visit the Owino Market. Let me see if I can explain this properly (I know this will not capture it...but it will be an attempt). Imagine the biggest flea market you have ever been to. Now, imagine a huge corn maze. Now, drop what seems like 30,000 plus people into it. Also add everything that you could ever imagine buying (except for newer technology based stuff). I mean, clothes, shoes, dried rotting fish, every fruit and vegetable imaginable, cheap radios, people sewing, chickens in cages, hats, bras, underwear,...everything! Do you have that in mind? Now, (I am not sure as to the actual size)...but drop all of that into a square about 1/8 of a mile by 1/8 of a mile. Drop in 9 Muzungus (white people). Add in all of the smells...and you have a small idea of what it was like. And...this isn't the "impoverished" area. Everything of value went deep in pockets...and the camera (which we were told not to use unless we ask permission) went around the front so that hands could be kept on it at all times.
As we walked through, I began with sunglasses on...and people just shouted things like "muzungu" and "America." The deeper we found ourselves in this maze, the darker and more enclosed it got. So...the sunglasses came off. Once they did, the real fun began. People started making eye contact and talking. "Muzungu! Muzungu! That is an expensive camera! Take my picture!" When I stopped to take a picture, others would crowd around and start saying, "Muzungu, one for me!" The poses were a cross between very serious (which I discouraged by joking with them until they smiled)...and just plain goofy poses. Then the really magical part...showing them what they looked like. It ALWAYS ended in a smile or laugh. The really strange thing was...I felt completely comfortable the entire time. A member of my group told me afterwards that it is a good thing I am tall...so they could keep an eye on me as they would round a corner and begin to lose me (TRUST ME, this is NOT a place you want to get lost in...it might take days to find your way out). Needless to say, I have over 100 pictures of people there...and shook more hands than I probably have in the rest of my life combined. The really cool thing is...every single person we have run across (and trust me, it is a bunch) has smiled, wave, or greeted us with a "muzungu" or "America!"
On our way back, a car apparently swerved to miss a goat (yes, they are everywhere...and run loose...so do cattle) and ended up in the ditch. We had to stop and our driver helped him out. Good times.
There are so many things one could study here...but one very real possibility is the urbanization effect...and the impacts of moving from a subsistence existence in the rural parts of Uganda to a cash based existence in the cities. It has ethnography written all over it...and would be easy to do. Why? Not just because of the big markets. But also because the streets (everywhere) are absolutely lined with vendors...and they are all selling the same things. From milk, to cheap chinese products, to fresh produce (oh, one other thing...everything I have eaten since I have been here has been fresh). The biodiversity here is incredible to say the least! A person could pull a sample of 500...no problems at all, if they wanted to.
As for technology...only about 12 percent of the Uganda population has electricity. Technology is pretty much an afterthought (and rightfully so) to survival. I am staying at one of the top 2 or 3 lodges in Kampala for these first 2 days...the power is iffy and the internet is hit or miss at best.
Tomorrow we will participate in a bead sale (yes, I will bring home beads)...and begin our adventure in the bead village. We will then visit the slums. If what I saw today wasn't considered a "slum"...I think what I am about to see is going to be heartbreaking at best.
Overall...I think it is fair to say that I LOVE this place! It has a crazy, homey feel to it. After a few minutes, the craziness of it all subsides...and a clearer picture of the place is seen. Throughout the craziness there is a systematic logic.
Hopefully this will post without difficulties...and I can go find some dinner! I will post again when I have the opportunity.
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